Coming Home to Mexico: Hyacinthe M. Miller
Travel and Culture Guest Author Series: An interview with Canadian women's fiction author Hyacinthe M. Miller
Hyacinthe M. Miller is an award-winning author of short stories, magazine and newspaper articles, contemporary women's fiction and non-fiction. She's been published in various online publications, including her Substack, Life’s Canvas.
Her debut novel, Kenora Reinvented, was published in 2019. Her current works-in-progress include The Fifth Man, book two of the Kenora & Jake series, a family memoir and a general interest text based on interviews with over seventy current and retired police officers around the world about challenges, rewards, and leadership in their chosen profession.
Hyacinthe is Past Chair of Crime Writers of Canada and belongs to professional organizations including the Alliance of Independent Authors, Alexandra Writers Society, Toronto Romance Writers, and Sisters in Crime. She is a founding member and Past President of the Writers Community of York Region, a qualified critique group leader, script advisor and writing mentor. She blogs about writing at https://hyacinthemillerbooks.com.
It’s that time of year when Canadians think about moving south for the winter. For the “Snowbirds” among us, here’s some food for thought.
We interviewed Hyacinthe M. Miller about her experiences in Ajijic, Mexico, and how that has influenced her writing. We discuss her experiences there, and how she plans to use these ideas in her upcoming novel.
Travel and Culture: Tell us about your travel experience. Why and how did you choose to visit Ajijic, Mexico?
I was introduced to Ajijic (pronounced A-hee-hee, aka the laughing town) in 2018, by friends who have had a winter home there for two decades. It’s one of the designated Pueblos Magicos around the country. We’ve travelled to half a dozen resorts in Mexico but grew tired of having such a sanitized experience all all-inclusive resorts surrounded by other Canadians escaping our frigid winters.
What grabbed my attention was our visit to La Nueva Posada, a hotel on the shore of Lake Chapala. Although it was constructed in the early 90s by the father of the current owner, Michael Eager, it looks like it has been there forever – a wide circular stone staircase, unique artifacts and statuary rescued from historical buildings slated for demolition, exuberant hedges of brilliant bougainvillea, an outdoor patio built around a towering 100-year old Ficus tree, Pancho, the grumpy resident parrot, and views across the lake.
T&C: What experience or activity did you enjoy most there? What made it memorable for you? Tell us about it.
Have you ever walked into a place and felt that it ‘called’ to you? I felt that way about La Nueva Posada and the rest of the town. If you’re fit and adventurous, you can walk everywhere. On the sidewalks, folks greet you as you pass with a cheery buenas dias.
There’s a mixture of old and new – the Catholic church with a plaque commemorating its construction in 1749, the ankle-spraining cobblestone streets, North American SUVs jostling the narrow roads alongside gente a caballo, the Wednesday Tianguis (market) one town over from a WalMart, the 12 peso (85 cent) bus ride through narrow back streets, where passengers are entertained by jugglers, beat-boxers and clowns, the streetside ‘lonches’ and the Scandinavian Bakery at Laguna Mall, the sense of safety as a gringa but hearing stories of the man shot in the head at the mall in a targeted shooting because of a business dispute.
The art is a feast for the eyes. Music is everywhere. Road construction is a constant. When the skies are clear, the brilliant blue reminds me of pre-pollution days but no matter what, that Mexican sun will crisp up your flesh in no time if you don’t cover up.
I’ve made many friends, so when I arrive each year, it’s like coming home.
What did affect me was discovering that right across Lake Chapala, under miles of white that reminded me of handkerchiefs, they grow most of the tender fruit we buy at Costco – raspberries, blueberries, blackberries. The sad thing is, all that employment and trade money comes at the cost of almost constant burning of vegetation on the hillsides, to create more farmland.
T&C: It sounds amazing. How did it change your perspective or affect your writing?
In terms of my writing, the tranquillity and friendliness have been inspirational – I write every day. I have met more writers – many from Canada – at various events Lakeside. The Lake Chapala area was a haven for a self-proclaimed Russian noblewoman and scores of Americans running from the law in the 50s, 60s and 70s, including murderers, fraudsters and Oliver North.
I’m on the last chapter of my second novel, and when I was in Ajijic last winter, it occurred to me that it was the perfect place for the ending, when my protagonist Kenora finally locates the mystery man she’s been searching for. Michael, the owner of the hotel where I stayed for a number of years, knows everybody and everything about Ajijic. He was able to fill in lots of local colour, which was very helpful. I’ve written him into my book. Because I take hundreds of photos, I have a location for the meeting with my mystery man.
T&C: While you were there, did you try any new foods or local dishes? What do you remember about your dining experiences?
There are more restaurants than you can imagine and a bonus for me, a gluten-free bakery with delicious selections. The dining room at La Nueva Posada serves (mostly) excellent food. Michael’s daughter is one of the chefs, and another daughter is a manager, so it’s truly a family affair. I got hooked on fish tacos – crispy morsels tucked into a flour tortilla (I discovered I don’t like the corn ones) with guacamole and tart coleslaw on the side. And their margarita helado con sal, is strong enough to make you question whether you can walk back to your room. Better yet – they do takeout!! Often, my good friend D'Vorah (a Unitarian Universalism minister from New England) and I walk down to the lake to watch the glorious sunsets. We fill our insulated water bottles with margaritas and watch the world go by.
Dining has become very Americanized, due to the large/demanding expat population from the U.S. who long for Papa John’s and Burger King (ugh). And they bring their silly dogs with them everywhere – dodging dog poo on the sidewalks is an annoying occurrence. Food does play an important part of entertaining, so if you’re invited to a house party, you’d better bring something to eat!
I’ve had some amazing entrees made with farmed salmon from Chile. There’s authentic Thai, Italian and Indian restaurants. You can eat out every night and not repeat! Last winter, after travelling the world for decades, I came down with two nasty viruses caused by inadequate hand sanitation (I won’t go into details) at an Italian restaurant. Thank goodness I have a physician there who could write me prescriptions, because it was two days before I was scheduled to return north. By the way, with the exception of narcotics, anti-psychotics or anti-depressants, medicine in Mexico is available over the counter.
This year, I was invited to a Mardi Gras potluck put on by Black People of Lake Chapala – I tasted collard greens for the first time!
T&C: Did you have the ability to cook anything yourself? Or did you try to recreate the experience by cooking something when you got home again?
The little casita I rented in 2024 had a little kitchen with a fridge and sink. I stocked up on essentials at the fresh market and the supermercado down the street. My friend loaned me her Instant Pot, so I was in business. Beans and rice, chicken, potatoes and pork chops, Asian soups, popcorn – that was so liberating. I love to entertain, so having friends over was a huge bonus! I was able to find breads sin gluten and dairy products sin lactosa at WalMart and in the local health food stores. Once a week, I’d brave the hot sun and climb that killer hill to the gluten free bakery to buy the tastiest, flaky empanadas. I connected with a man who churns his own butter from local cows – most of the stuff in the stores is glorified margarine. Once a week, we butter aficionados trek to the central plaza and wait until he rolls up with his insulated cooler.
I found a man who prepared fresh Thai and Indian soups and noodle dishes and delivered them to my hotel – what a treat!
T&C: This is fascinating. What did you see or experience of the local culture while you were there? Please describe a memorable example (or two) for us. How was it new or different for you?
If you don’t hang out in the gringo spots, you can easily interact with the locals. I’ve been learning Spanish for years and can get along fairly well. There’s always Google translate in a pinch. Culture is everywhere. Wall murals, statues, open air exhibits, tables set up to sell food and jewellery, art studios, tours. There’s a vibrant little theatre community – I attended the dress rehearsal for sold-out Jesus Christ Superstar and it was excellent.
Tlaquepaque, not far from Guadalajara, is crammed with art, mariachi music (all female bands), ceramics, jewellery, history – you name it, it’s there.
A group of us hired a local guide to take us through Los Guachimontones, a pre-Columbian archaeological round pyramid that is a UNESCO Heritage Site – phenomenal.
What I attend regularly are the artistic events and craft sales held to benefit those in need – women and girls, and always orphans. Pre-Covid, my brothers and I donated money to an orphanage across the lake in Jocotopec, for construction of a fresh water well in memory of our mother. In February 2022, I returned to deliver the commemorative plaque. It was a kick watching the old nun direct my driver about where to hammer in the plaque.
What always strikes me is that three elderly nuns have responsibility for the care of 24 children, aged 3 months to 14 years old (that’s when they ‘age out’). They are wards of the state, having been seized or given up by the parents, who cannot afford to raise them, or rescued from child exploitation or training as drug mules. Because of the support of ex-pat communities, the children are well taken care of, but every time I’ve been there, two or three of them will grasp my hand and ask if they can come home with me. It’s heartbreaking – my driver and I usually leave in tears.
I volunteer at another school for girls in Chapala. Next winter, I’m going to teach them a bit of English in conjunction with teaching them how to bake simple foods like cookies. A friend of mine from the UK will be there to do art therapy. That’s the kind of place Lakeside is, if you have your eyes open to helping others.
Of course there are the touristic hats, tchotchkes and western sweets, but that’s just good business.
T&C: That makes me wonder, did you use a setting or character or write a scene based on your travels? Give us an example?
Oh, absolutely. I used the setting and some of the characters I encountered. All the people I name are real. I’ll change their names in the final version. I was originally going to have the book end in Argentina, but it occurred to me that I had come to know Ajijic so well, it made sense to have things come together there.
T&C: What would you tell someone else who wanted to travel there? What tips can you give us based on your experience?
Ajijic is not for anyone expecting a resort experience. There’s plenty of accommodation at various price points but you have to be prepared for the rustic aspects like cobblestone streets, horrible lighting at night (the streets are virtually empty by 8 pm after the sun goes down), there is limited night life, in part because half the population in winter is retirados, and they don’t party.
I’d encourage them to make friends – just talk to people. What I’ve become used to is being stopped on the street by women – usually Black American women – who are curious about where I’ve come from and why I’m in Ajijic. Those meetings have led to meeting other folks, being invited to Mardi Gras parties, music nights, BBQs, etc.
Take what we call the ‘chicken bus’ – the inter-city 10 peso bus favoured by the locals. It will be hot and entertaining. You have to know where you’re going because even if you tell the driver, he’ll be listening to his music or on the phone, and you’ll end up miles from your original destination.
Don’t expect North American standards. Walk around, be curious, be open and friendly. Don’t be afraid – remember, no one there knows who or what you are!
T&C: Great advice! Is there anything else you’d like to add about the experience or why it was memorable for you?
The medical care at the private clinic I go to is top-notch. I wasn’t getting answers from my Canadian physician about my back and lined up visits with a family doctor and orthopaedic specialists (no waiting a year – 45 minutes if you have not pre-booked). I finally got the answers I needed, after having a battery of diagnostic imaging and blood tests. When I sent a copy of all the reports to my family doctor here, he was sceptical and remarked that they just wanted my money. When I asked if he would have sent me for the tests that showed he’d been treating the wrong thing for ten years, he said no. So, in a way, our ‘free’ medical system means that you get what you pay for in some cases.
T&C: True. Well, Ajijic sounds like an amazing place to visit! I can understand why you love going back. And it’s been wonderful hearing how it’s influenced your writing as well. We wish you success with it! Thanks so much, Hyacinthe, for sharing your experiences with us today.
Hyacinthe M. Miller blogs about writing at https://hyacinthemillerbooks.com and on her Substack, Life’s Canvas.
Hyacinthe’s books are available via: amzn.to/3g7XmpZ and https://books2read.com/u/bw2rK0
Legal disclaimer: We disclaim all liability for the content of websites to which our site provides links.